Sunday, February 28, 2010

Banganek turtle tour...

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This clip was the best I could do, given the limitations of actually viewing these very tiny potentially prehistoric giants. On our recent break to Maputuland, we headed off to Banganek, which lies as the crow flies directly opposite the Kosi Bay Camp, over Lake 3. It takes forever to drive there on the 2 track sandy roads that are the norm in this area. But most definitely worth it!

We reached Banganek just as the sun was setting and then waited for our guide, Victor, a local guy that knows his stuff when it comes to fishing the deep blue and showing turtles! Firstly, when you go on a turtle tour, you go with no light. Never did I know that turtles will follow the light and that it could potentially hypnotise them to a certain extent. Which is NO GOOD! The light confuses them and then they don't know where to go. They usually follow the reflection of the moon on the ocean and this is how they know where to go. But if some plonker comes along and shines his 1 million candle watt spot, you might as well jump on the turtle and save it from it's misery! This might sound harsh, but its the truth.

The tours aren't "conservation friendly" at all, as this is a public beach and there are people fishing and you do not require a permit as you do when you visit Kosi Mouth. Any plonker can go sit or walk there and interfere with these highly sensitive breeders and their babies when they make their way down to the big blue. They say the stats are 1 out of a 1000 babies survive to adulthood. I guess it doesn't take rocket science to work out that if people are picking them up and "helping" them around, they probably wont make it. My brows were seriously lifting at the effectiveness of the research that is being done on these amazing creatures. Banganek has one of the largest research stations for turtles on our coast line, but I cannot see how this is helping the turtles. It is helping the community to make some money by doing these tours, but I can't see the good side for the turtles in the way that things have been set out.

It really is a special experience and you should tread carefully so that you don't accidentally step on a baby loggerhead turtle like I almost did. Their chances are already so slim. Also don't pick them up and carry them to the water, you are aiding in a slow death of a baby turtle. They purposely have to trek across the beach to build up strenght before hitting the water! These turtles have an amazing journey through life and return to the same place where they were born, to lay their eggs when the time comes. It can only leave me in awe of the amazing creation that we live in, this place called earth. Our home.

Heroes as usual...

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Have a look at the video clip above... so this is how it happened:

We were on our way back from fishing and having an idyllic day at Black Rock on our recent getaway to Kosi Bay, when we came across these 2 crazy old ducks in their Nissan Navara. Stuck, what seemed like for good. Of course, being a game ranger, you are used to saving the day and knowing your way around the elements of nature. Slamming on breaks, the boys jumped out, to start the rescue!

The two old ducks freaking out, begging for assistance made some comment, which I failed to hear, which provoked the response of:

Don't worry lady, we are game rangers, we do this type of thing everyday!

And thank goodness they do this type of thing everyday, otherwise we might have gotten stuck there with them, the cows and some locals bopping around with palm leaves and what not to try create traction under the tyres. Nissan Navara was put to shame. Brand new 4X4 means nothing, when an old game rangers Land Rover has to rescue your shiny ass!

So the boys saved the day and then managed to get an invite for a G&T back at their camp. Oh oh oh, is all I can say. Do not accept any invites from 2 crazy old ladies in a fancy shiny car in the middle of nowhere. You are probably getting yourself into some weird situation that will make you regret stopping and helping in the first place!

Saturday, February 27, 2010

A game rangers holiday...

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Ever wondered before what game rangers get up to in their spare time.... have a squiz above! Both these boys are now veteran big 5 game rangers as they have been doing it passionately for the past 10 years...and still going strong.

We headed off for a break in Maputuland and camped at Kosi Bay Camp which forms part of the Isimangaliso Wetlands formerly known as the St. Lucia Wetlands World Heritage Site. Kosi Bay is literally 10km from the Mozambique border post and when you are out there, it truly is OUT there.

The campsites are located on Lake 3's edge and has a pretty awesome feel to it. If you love water, this should most definitely be added to your list of destinations to visit before you die! We spent 7 blissful days, visiting Kosi Mouth (caught no fish), Black Rock (caught no fish), Banganek (the boys caught 1 very large sand shark on a night fishing expedition - but no photo...so we contemplate fisherman stories...)

For a different perspective on conservation Shane and Werner surprised us girls with a turtle tour at Banganek, which is one of the nesting sights where loggerhead and leather back turtles come and lay their eggs. What an experience...and what an eye opener. I never realised that walking on a sandy beach for hours at night time could be so disorientating. There will be a separate post on the turtle tour experience...

So with boys being boys, and game rangers taking a break from the bush, in another, well different bush... it stays the bush non the less and you can never soak up enough of the rhythm of Africa!